

Although way above my comfort level, I jumped in a shot some photos at a sketchy spot on a big day. It's been 10 years since this wave broke, and it probably won't again for a long time. There were still some pretty big sets rolling through this shallow reef break, so I hung back where it was a little more safe and took some wide shots that captured more of the environment, and focused less on the surfers. Guys who fell were getting held under for 25 seconds, pretty gnarly.
Since it was cloudy, the colors and highlights in general came out a little flat. I decided to go with this black and white film grain treatment.
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